After a successful Met Gala 2025 performance, designer Thom Browne unveils his Pre-Fall 2025 collection, furthering his investigation into sartorial norms. This carefully crafted assortment playfully combines and challenges traditional male and female fashion stereotypes. From the perspective of Thom Browne, tailoring classics are deconstructed, rearranged, and infused with his unique dramatic flair and precise design skills.
This collection highlights a significant focus on sculptural shapes. In an interview with Vogue, the designer described his Pre-Fall collection as being somewhat like a mini couture line. He also mentioned that he wants people to notice that both the collection and the business are growing in a robust way, without losing what has always made his collections appealing. The shoulders in this collection are either exaggerated or sharply defined, and sometimes rounded dramatically, forming a strong and almost structural outline. Meanwhile, trousers can be precisely tailored and cropped, or boldly voluminous, playing with proportions and defying traditional shapes. Similarly, skirts and dresses have structured forms, often featuring unexpected pleats, folds, and details resembling panniers that create striking three-dimensional impacts.
In a sporty twist, Thom Browne’s classic tailoring style is updated with mesh basketball jerseys bearing the number 65, signifying the designer’s birth year. He expressed that the boundary between tailoring and sportswear can be blurred, stating “I truly believe that tailoring can be sportswear just as sportswear can be tailoring.” Other significant pieces in the collection are a suede denim jacket and a mohair tweed work shirt, demonstrating Browne’s continued exploration with more delicate materials. Check out the entire collection above.
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2025-05-14 12:56