Phoebe Philo is the master of oversized without overpowering. Though Collection C is filled with gentle lines and soft fabrics, Philo’s clothing is not for the milquetoast wearer.
Hidden details, like a loose zippered pant leg, exposed studded sole, and a snakeskin-esque brushed mohair wool trench, allow each piece to speak for itself without speaking over anyone else. In a more sculptural moment, a gravity-defying waterfall skirt is reminiscent of Ariana Grande’s recent Schiaparelli Couture Oscar’s look, though the earth brown is much more suited for a subdued fall.
Accessories strengthened the rustic palette, offering Philo’s signature oversized sunglasses and a wide range of functional footwear. Pant legs pooled over zipped suede bumper booties while oxblood knee-high and ankle square-toed heeled boots provided practical stability for Philo’s modern, appearing to be effortless, woman.
Soft, cocooning shapes, tented leather silhouettes, and relaxed tie-dyed jerseys resisted the cinched and sharpened power dressing that dominated this season’s catwalks. Instead, menswear silhouettes were easily translated “as is” through a monotone charcoal tuxedo set and tobacco “Man’s Coat.” Although, it’s always safe to say Philo is a trendless designer in her own right, as demonstrated by the brand’s untraditional lookbook/drop rollout method.
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2025-03-18 18:30