Alexander McQueen FW25 Dresses the Decadent Dandy

At Paris Fashion Week this past weekend, Sean McGirr presented his latest Alexander McQueen collection inspired by dandyism and the Victorian Gothic style. The music of Ange Halliwell played as a backdrop to this display, with its 19th-century string strums and hypnotic arpeggios. Tom Scutt’s mirrored installation served as a gateway for McGirr’s Fall/Winter 2025 characters, who seemed to emerge from Victorian architecture while still being modernized for the 21st century. These personas were reminiscent of characters from Charles Dickens’s “Night Walks” essay, which was featured on McGirr’s moodboard.

McGirr expressed that, for him, embracing dandyism represents the pinnacle of self-expression; it’s a unique blend of individuality, humor, and rebellion. This style stirs up debates about personality, values, and social roles, including those related to gender. I aimed to delve into the lasting impact of the dandy’s revolutionary spirit in today’s contemporary society.

On the runway, McGirr underscored the contrast between the dandy’s bragging and the punk’s obscurity: opulent gold bullion embroidered garments were unveiled alongside translucent masks, just as Philip Treacy’s sculptural black hats made an appearance, effectively hiding those who wore them. Amidst this contrasting atmosphere, there was a palpable sense of self-respect present. The collection was accentuated by collar folds reminiscent of books, narrowed Victorian shoulders, lavish jacquard fabrics, voluminous shearlings that hugged the body, and sunflower embroideries adorned with studs – all embodiments of McQueen’s modern designs. These looks exuded self-assuredness.

Ultimately, it became apparent that Oscar Wilde’s words, carefully inscribed on the show notes, served as a compass for the collection: “‘Know yourself’ was etched above the entrance of the ancient world. Above the entrance of the modern world, ‘Be yourself’ will be inscribed.” McGirr’s Alexander McQueen exudes confidence.

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